In both sections of Ulysses—that is, books 1-3 and books 4-6—clothes are indicators of performative personas. There’s a kind of clothing etiquette that clashes with the characters’ observations, desires, and expectations: “He kills his mother but he can’t wear gray trousers,” Buck Mulligan says derisively of Stephen Dedalus in Book 1 (6). Later Dedalus, confused, wishes to “dress the character” in “puce gloves and green boots” (17); his tie is “rebellious” and his outfit a “contradiction” (17). Stephen’s out of sync with the persona he should or wants to convey; for this reason, there’s as sense of powerlessness and almost victimization in his interactions with Buck Mulligan, and of neurotic inadequacy when he’s alone.
Because Buck, Stephen’s foil, is the master of performance. His actions are described in terms of his body parts, as though he’s a puppet master or ventriloquist manipulating himself: “face smiling with delight,” “showing his white teeth and blinking his eyes,” “[speaking] with warmth of tone” (13, 16). His ease with performance and self-manipulation is a demonstration of power and control: Buck controls the self he puts out into the world, and consequently seems to have a kind of self-possession Dedalus envies but can’t himself obtain. “Whom were you trying to walk like?” Dedalus thinks in book 3. “Forget: a dispossessed” (41).
For his own part, Bloom seems plugged into a kind of game of clothed, civilized personas hiding much nastier, viscerally unpleasant truths, noting the “yellow blacknailed fingers” of clean-shaven Bantam Lyons (85) and imagining the “horrid” dead body of Paddy Dignam, “sphincter loose” (98), so different from the prepared, “wash[ed] and shampoo[ed]” body he expects to see. A lot of his inner monologue too has to do with disrobing, and while that’s often sexual, there seems to be the implication that with the disrobing there’s a performative character that’s shed as well: see the “stylish kind of coat” he notes on the “haughty creature” in book 4. The urge to “take the starch” out of the woman connotes a deeper desire to get rid of civilized disguises, echoing his “brutal” character (78): his carnal preoccupation, his love of his own body, his penchant for the “inner organs of beasts” (55). Likewise he contemptuously notes the “large grey bootsole” under the “lace affair” the priest has on, hinting at a workingman-type character hidden behind the man’s “pious fraud”: “Suppose he lost the pin of his,” he thinks, “he wouldn’t know what to do to” (81). The scene echoes the book’s opening, where “stately” Buck Mulligan ascends the tower, bearing his shaving kit.
In fact, the two scenes are almost inverse: in one, the priest hides his rough character beneath a “lace affair” to retain his “aristocratic” bearing (81); in the other, Buck parades in his yellow dressing-robe in overt mockery of the Church while performing what actually seems to be a very serious ritual—the care and maintenance of his face, which, masklike in its manipulative power, is his most bizarrely distinctive feature throughout the books we’ve read so far.